The Widow Clicquot: The Story of a Champagne Empire and the Woman Who Ruled It (Tilar J. Mazzeo)
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Naturally, the _Oxford English Dictionary_ contains the word "widow", but if you look down the definition list, you will come across one that might surprise you: "champagne". The entry clarifies (a little) that a "colloquial or slang" use of the word comes from "Veuve Clicquot", French for "Widow Clicquot", the name of a firm of wine merchants, and at its helm was indeed the widow Barbe-Nicole Clicquot Ponsardin. Further clarification, and much more, can be found in _The Widow Clicquot: The Story of a Champagne Empire and the Woman Who Ruled It_ (Collins) by Tilar J. Mazzeo. Mazzeo is an assistant professor, a cultural historian, and a wine enthusiast. In her acknowledgements, she thanks all the "many friends who joined me so enthusiastically in the extensive `primary' research, with a bottle of the Widow in hand." It is clear that Mazzeo enjoyed the research, and that she admires the Widow and the widow, of whom she writes that she was no queen, duchess, or mother of some great man, and she wasn't even a widow of a great man: "She was simply a formidable and independent woman, making her own name in the humdrum, dog-eat-dog world of business." There were a few other women of her time who were successful in big business, but Barbe-Nicole was something extraordinary in her determination to make a product that everyone knows and values two centuries later. This is a good biography, along with descriptions of the science, art, and history of winemaking.
When Barbe-Nicole came onto the wine scene, champagne was a niche market. She was born in 1777 to a wealthy family in Reims. She formed a good marriage with François Clicquot, whose family had become wealthy in the cloth trades, but who had a sideline in wines. They learned the craft of winemaking together, but he died when she was only 27, possibly of typhoid (which people thought might be treated by giving the patient champagne) and maybe from suicide because his business was going badly. With considerable pluck, his widow held onto the company. Contemporary traditions and then the Napoleonic code dictated that the woman's place was in the home, but there were other widows preceding her in the wine business, and though they may have lost their husbands, they were the only women granted the freedom of running their own affairs. She had picked a good time to jump into the champagne market. Much of Mazzeo's book has to do with the effects of history on the wine markets, including events like the Russian occupation of Reims. The widow was able at times to exploit current events and make sales, for instance, to Czar Alexander, who proclaimed that he would drink nothing else. There are also accounts of how the widow worked with her cellar master to make champagne clearer and with tiny, not gassy, bubbles.
Mazzeo's book traces the widow's business and her decisions which were sometimes disastrous but were more often judicious and lucrative. It was her business skill and capacity to exploit new markets at just the right time that elevated champagne to the customary drink for celebrations. Although much of the making of champagne remained a hand-crafted process, she did institute techniques that, in tune with her time, allowed its increasing industrialization. Her wines are still made; the finest made at Veuve Clicquot is called "La Grande Dame", and bears a rich yellow color on the label. (The history of wine labeling is one of the small points covered here. Originally, the wine houses made do with merely branding their corks, and although the widow had used labels by 1814, it was only the advent of train transportation leading to easy international commerce that got every bottle labeled.) Mazzeo, in an entertaining book that covers a great deal of wine history, has had to evaluate vast amounts of business records, but because the widow herself did not keep a journal or write many personal notes that have been preserved, Mazzeo uses a lot of judicious "perhaps" introductions to tell us what the widow might have been thinking or doing. There is one wonderful quotation from Mme. Clicquot in a letter to her granddaughter, which nicely sums up what the widow thought was important: "The world is in perpetual motion, and we invent the things of tomorrow. One must go before others, be determined and exacting, and let your intelligence direct your life. Act with audacity." It was advice to which she had been faithful all her career.