Chicago, IL
4
I visited there a few times in the early 90's. Unfortunately for me, I always compare every city I've ever been to, in America and Europe both, to NY, and always find those other cities lacking. Still, I was suitably impressed by Chicago. If I had to live in the Midwest, Chicago is where I'd want to be. For one thing, it's the only city west of NY where I've had even halfway decent Italian food. Nightlife is good, there are a wide assortment of museums and historical exhibits, and the bookstores are worthwhile (although not up to NY standards, but then I've never found any in other cities that are, which might just be regional prejudice on my part). Also, given the history of organized crime in Chicago, it was a cornucopia for a mob enthusiast like me. I took a bus tour around the city, which is something I'd recommend to anybody unfamiliar with the city (as I was). The tour passed by the Lexington Hotel, on Michigan Avenue and 22nd Street, which once served as Al Capone's headquarters. The hotel was in ruins at the time, and would soon be demolished (which I consider an egregious lack of respect for an integral part of the Windy City's history; you certainly don't have to celebrate someone like Capone, but to wipe out those historical landmarks connected to his memory, as if that will somehow erase the tradition of racketeering that continues to cling to the city's reputation, is reprehensible, in my opinion). The bus tour also pointed out the mansions of people like Jesse Jackson and Muhammad Ali, as well as passing the Pacific Garden Mission, which used to have a religious radio show called "Unshackled" that played nightly back in NJ and featured the stories of drunks and drug addicts who found God (not that that's a humorous topic, but I used to listen to it religiously while drinking and doing drugs; the corny opening organ alone was enough to give me a laugh). Al Capone's former home, while still standing, is in a very bad Southside neighborhood, and I didn't linger there. In north Chicago, the Biograph Theatre, where John Dillinger was shot down in 1934, was still in existence, and I would have loved to have seen a movie there, but they were playing "Ninja Turtles" at the time, and I was sure I wasn't going to be able to endure that for 2 hours, my devotion to all things Dillinger notwithstanding. I took pictures around Holy Name Cathedral, where Dean O'Banion once was an altar boy and where Hymie Weiss was shot to death in 1926 (despite his Jewish-sounding name, Weiss was an extremely devout Catholic, in addition to being a vicious killer). The site of the St. Valentine's Day Massacre is a parking lot now, as is the flower shop (across the street from Holy Name) where O'Banion, Chicago's most infamous Irish crime boss, was fatally shot while pruning flowers. The outlying suburbs also featured items of interest for the crime buff. I drove past the innocuous, middle-class home of the late "Mad Sam" DeStefano, who was considered one of Chicago's worst torture-murderers in addition to being a bit of a jokester (I'd recommend a book called "A Mob Of His Own" by Tony Dark; not particularly well written, but Mad Sam was one of a kind and his life story makes for fascinating reading). I found the grave of Baby Face Nelson nee Lester Gillis. I also went to Mount Carmel Cemetery in Hillside, which is Chicago's "Mafia Boot Hill". I found the graves of Big Al, Dean O'Banion, Hymie Weiss, Frank Nitti, the Genna Brothers, James Belcastro, Sam Giancana, and others (a cop at one gangland funeral was heard to say, and I paraphrase, "When Judgement Day comes, and the graves of these underworld enemies open up, there's gonna be hell to pay in this cemetery."). Across the street, in another Catholic cemetery, I found the graves of Tony Accardo, Sam Battaglia, Fiore Buccieri, Turk Torello, Mad Sam (he was shotgunned to death in his garage in 1973), and Anthony "The Ant" Spilotro, who was played by Joe Pesci in the Scorcese film "Casino". Ironically enough, DeStefano and Spilotro, who may have been the man responsible for pulling the trigger on Mad Sam, are buried within yards of each other.